The necklace is one of the most widespread and appreciated ornaments in the world, also thanks to the countless models in which it can be made, which make it an extremely versatile jewel .
The band that wraps around the neck can have many different shapes, short or long as desired, composed of a chain or a cord, it can be gold, silver, platinum, enriched with pearls, pendants and precious stones. In short: a necklace is an object rich in shapes and meanings, just like its history and the role it has played in society. Let's discover together some curiosities about this jewel.
From shells to the splendor of the pharaohs
Perhaps you too have wondered how and when the use of the necklace spread. Scholars, however, do not agree on the origin of this jewel, but we know almost certainly that it was among the first ornaments worn by humans since the Neolithic, perhaps as a religious symbol, since many finds have been found inside funerary complexes.
In ancient times, necklaces were made from organic materials, such as animal bones and teeth, woven skins, feathers, plants and shells. One of the earliest known examples was found in a tomb in central Europe, and dates back to between 4200 and 3400 BC.
But we had to wait until the Bronze Age to see the first necklaces made of metal appear : among the oldest finds we find a torque (also called torquis, torc or torq): a Celtic choker, widespread in Ireland and Scotland, dating back to between 1800 and 1500 BC.
What is striking, however, is the magnificence of the necklaces used by the ancient Egyptians : among the most used models, an elaborate collar made with precious materials, reserved for celebratory, religious and funerary purposes. These large necklaces of gold and precious stones (some of which have survived intact to the present day) were worn during solemnities by the Pharaoh, the priestly caste and the higher classes.
Necklaces, therefore, were not a simple decorative element: they communicated specific meanings within society and in some cultures they were a sign of prestige, power and wealth.
A Status Symbol: From Ancient Greece to Rome
It is among the Greeks and Romans that the necklace becomes a jewel of daily use , an ornament to be worn not only during particular ceremonies, but a real distinctive element to be worn to show belonging to a certain social rank. History has handed down to us intact masterpieces of craftsmanship that testify to the mastery in workmanship achieved by the Romans.
The series' ups and downs: the Middle Ages and the Modern Age
During the Middle Ages there was an apparent decline in the use of necklaces – especially in the Gothic environment where other types of ornaments such as pins and clasps were preferred, while in the Byzantine Empire this jewel found space as a religious element combined with crosses and sacred pendants.
At the beginning of the Renaissance, the necklace became fashionable again, especially among princes and kings , as a sign of sovereignty and power. Exemplary in this sense are the numerous portraits of French and English monarchs adorned with precious jewels. Necklaces set with precious stones and gold chains with pendants remained the distinctive style of the nobility from the 14th century until the beginning of the 17th century.
Styles and trends: from the eighteenth century to the present day
In the 18th century, the necklace became the central piece in the parure, the set of matching jewelry, which at the time also included a brooch, earrings, bracelets and a pendant or tiara. According to the fashion of the time, the necklace was combined with an evening dress, characterized by a bodice with a décolleté. During the day, it was preferred to wear brooches or clips, on less low-cut dresses. This concept of a matching set remained in vogue throughout the beginning of the 20th century, when clothing became more casual and necklaces became a much more transversal and widespread jewel.
How Fashion Influenced Necklaces
One of the most fascinating aspects of the history of necklaces is undoubtedly the one linked to the variations in style that have occurred over the centuries up to the present day. Changes in the way of dressing are among the aspects that have most contributed to influencing the shape and length of necklaces. More or less low-cut dresses, for example, have favored the spread of more complex and elaborate jewels. This does not necessarily mean that these were not worn even in the absence of low-cut dresses: think, for example, of all those necklaces made of wide gold links that embellished the dresses of the Elizabethan era, standing out under elaborate lace ruffs.
It is always fascinating to see how each historical period has a certain influence on those that follow, leading to revivals of styles and the rediscovery of classics from the past such as necklaces inspired by the Greco-Roman style or chokers from Ancient Egypt.
Not just an accessory for women: men's necklaces
As we know today necklaces are worn mainly by women, but as we have seen it has not always been so. In the past centuries, this type of jewelry was also extremely popular among men, especially those of power. Men's necklaces stopped being popular around the 18th century, a period in which this jewel became an element associated with female beauty, often associated in sets with bracelets and earrings.
The men's necklace, however, remained in use as a religious symbol to show belonging to a particular faith.
But it was only in the twentieth century that we see a return of this jewel also as a male accessory : the necklaces made of colored beads and worn by hippies in the 60s are famous, as are the gold chains with pendants that were popular during the explosion of Disco Music. During the late twentieth century, the gold or platinum necklace with diamond-studded pendants was then the symbol of American hip hop culture. The materials used to make necklaces As mentioned above, throughout history there have been many materials used to make necklaces. In Western culture, the most precious ones are gold, diamonds, studded with precious stones or made of pearls. Among these, the diamond necklace has always been one of the most prestigious and glamorous accessories, considered a symbol of elegance and refinement in every era. The pearl necklace, a classic still very popular, was very popular among Roman women, during the Renaissance and at the beginning of the eighteenth century.
Today, new production techniques and the introduction of new materials have contributed to making the range of necklaces available even wider, making this jewel an essential accessory.